si fueris Rōmae, Rōmānō vīvitō mōre; si fueris alibī, vīvitō sicut ibi
- "When in Rome, do as the Romans do; if you are elsewhere, do as they do."
“When all else fails, act like you belong”
These mantras have served me well no matter what situation I have found myself in, and being one with the Shanghainese is no different than living in Toronto or Leeds if I really want to succeed. Although I am most definitely “not Chinese”, I feel like I’ve gotten a decent sense of what it’s like to be from Shanghai. My foreignness and complete and utter failure to grasp rudimentary Mandarin has not prevented a number of people to stop me for a long mostly unintelligible conversation. It hasn’t stopped strangers and my Chinese colleagues from helping me out when I’m in need, and I think I can speak for the seven of us when I say that the local generosity and patience of the locals has been incredible.
First off, to be Shanghainese, you need to have very little value on “personal space”. Even when I teach, my grade 1 and 3 students are never far away, and any physical contact, up to and including a full on stairway tackle in the halls is not off limits for these kids. Recess at the schools are a warzone, and even a rainy day can’t stop Chinese students from wrestling each other or climbing on top of the shelves. Research suggests that's a good thing. Helpful kids though… last week was Spring Cleaning day, and all the kids got put to work cleaning the school's every nook and cranny. It was tough, but I managed to scrounge together a couple of eager volunteers.
These mantras have served me well no matter what situation I have found myself in, and being one with the Shanghainese is no different than living in Toronto or Leeds if I really want to succeed. Although I am most definitely “not Chinese”, I feel like I’ve gotten a decent sense of what it’s like to be from Shanghai. My foreignness and complete and utter failure to grasp rudimentary Mandarin has not prevented a number of people to stop me for a long mostly unintelligible conversation. It hasn’t stopped strangers and my Chinese colleagues from helping me out when I’m in need, and I think I can speak for the seven of us when I say that the local generosity and patience of the locals has been incredible.
First off, to be Shanghainese, you need to have very little value on “personal space”. Even when I teach, my grade 1 and 3 students are never far away, and any physical contact, up to and including a full on stairway tackle in the halls is not off limits for these kids. Recess at the schools are a warzone, and even a rainy day can’t stop Chinese students from wrestling each other or climbing on top of the shelves. Research suggests that's a good thing. Helpful kids though… last week was Spring Cleaning day, and all the kids got put to work cleaning the school's every nook and cranny. It was tough, but I managed to scrounge together a couple of eager volunteers.
Subways at rush hours are packed like a sardine can, except without all that tasty brine to keep it cozy for the sardines. People are nice enough and are often as deadeye tired as you in the morning to not care that they are snuggled into your armpit. Everyone owns smartphones, and I’ve seen many masters of the walk-and-watch-a-movie-on-your-iPad. You know that age-old stereotype. The tight spaces do have its bright spots, as I was able to watch a 15-minute selection of someone’s moderately violent kung-fu movie on one commute home.
When crossing the street, it’s important to look both ways, but you’re best off with a constant 360° survey before, during and even after you get to the other side. Road rules are lightly enforced, and motorcycles more or less seem to live on Mad Max-style outlaw rules. You might find them creeping (or flying) up the sidewalk behind you, have them barrel towards your taxi in a “one way” street or run that red light you were anticipating. If you keep your head up, walk with confidence and have a basic understanding of physics, you should be fine.
When crossing the street, it’s important to look both ways, but you’re best off with a constant 360° survey before, during and even after you get to the other side. Road rules are lightly enforced, and motorcycles more or less seem to live on Mad Max-style outlaw rules. You might find them creeping (or flying) up the sidewalk behind you, have them barrel towards your taxi in a “one way” street or run that red light you were anticipating. If you keep your head up, walk with confidence and have a basic understanding of physics, you should be fine.
If a foreigner hands you a phone, and they are speaking gibberish, you might as well just take it so the person on the other line can be given proper directions instead of a repetition of “uhh… umm... zhenpi… chibting… English? English!” I swear I’m trying my best to learn Mandarin, but teaching and planning to teach English takes up a lot of time from learning the language. Is that irony?
I have been able to do a lot more exploring, and getting lost – or at least going in the direction of lost, helps orient yourself better than any map can. Public areas can make you believe that everyone in the city is immaculately dressed. Shanghai isn’t exactly fashion forward, they are more like fashion sideways. It is a very eclectic, urban style that is also functional. Major brands are standard on account of everything being extremely cheap in Shanghai, with men and women both lookin’ fresh to def. At least when you are close to the city center.
I have been able to do a lot more exploring, and getting lost – or at least going in the direction of lost, helps orient yourself better than any map can. Public areas can make you believe that everyone in the city is immaculately dressed. Shanghai isn’t exactly fashion forward, they are more like fashion sideways. It is a very eclectic, urban style that is also functional. Major brands are standard on account of everything being extremely cheap in Shanghai, with men and women both lookin’ fresh to def. At least when you are close to the city center.
However, my favourite bits to explore are working class China; narrow laneways of tiny vendors and shops and restaurants. Despite the warnings about its sanity, my iron stomach has declared street food a revelation. I would go into detail, but the food here deserves its own tribute. These small streets don’t produce the greatest odours, but what they lack in fragrance they make up for in character. The shops all open out on to the street, where you will often see the sole employee watching tv, eating lunch or taking a nap. That’s not to say they aren’t hardworking, but it does allow you to get nice and personal with them.
There are also many people employed as gatekeepers, police officers, security guards, street sweepers, transit employees, taxi drivers, barbers and human monkeys if that’s more your thing. And every job in between. China is cool.
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ps. I would just like to give my heartfelt congratulations and express excitement over the announcement of my brother Jordan and Jess on their pregnancy! I look forward to being an uncle!
1.
ps. I would just like to give my heartfelt congratulations and express excitement over the announcement of my brother Jordan and Jess on their pregnancy! I look forward to being an uncle!